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To Pemba’s Family and Worldwide Circle of Friends,

Words cannot convey the sadness and deep loss I feel of Pemba’s tragedy and death on Lhotse. She was a dear and special friend to me, my family and those she touched with her compassion and spirit on Lopez Island, Washington. I was able to spend several wonderful days with her in Kathmandu in early May together with her tigress of a daughter, Lhemi, as she prepared for her climb. She did tell me that she would not attempt the summit if she did not feel strong and prepared. I believe that she indeed was strong upon her summit success. Pemba chose to climb her dreams, not just to live her dreams. Her dream was to climb and to touch the summit of our earth. In doing so she has inspired us to challenge ourselves in what we choose to do. Most of Pemba’s life was spent in the protection and the embrace of the Himalayas, yet she spoke in world languages that would take most of us many lifetimes to master. Pemba honored each of us with her grace, humbleness, infectious giggle, and her broad and heartwarming smile that will never part from us. With her pursuit of climbing, she helped us to experience the joy, the wisdom and now the sorrow of the Himalayas, through her shared stories and accomplishments.

As she climbed and summitted Everest’s sister mountain, Lhotse this May, she could gaze at her climbing successes on Everest from the Tibet side and the Nepal side. Chomolungma, the Tibetan name meaning “The Mother Goddess of the Earth”, and Sagarmatha, the Nepali name “Mother of the Universe”. She could track where her husband was on Everest pursuing his own dream. She could look down towards Namche Bazaar where she was born and traveled each day to school, hiking 3 hours in the morning and running home to make extra time for her chores in Namche at her family’s trekking lodge. Her favorite time in Namche was not when the mountains were clear, but when the spring of April flowers filled the ridge above Namche and the mountains were shrouded in beautiful clouds. Her goals and dreams will live on with her gift of education and support through “Save the Himalayan Kingdom” and through her goddess presence in our embrace. Blessings to Raajen and Lhemi, for the joy Pemba brought to us through her friendship and inspiration. We will help to carry on her memory and good work. Our tears for her will sadly strengthen our souls.

Pemba Doma resides now at the very center of our hearts. A bright star has passed much too soon, but her legacy will only strengthen those she has chosen to help her on her way and to carry out her dreams for “Save the Himalayan Kingdom” and the dreams for Pemba’s daughter, Sairani (Lhemi), and her blessings for us to do our best at what we choose. Pemba is now at peace in our hearts as the strong sister and goddess to the Himalayas and Nepal.

Her friend,
Tracey Cottingham
Lopez Island, Washington

Photos courtesy Tracey Cottingham

A little bit about Pemba...

Pemba Doma Sherpa: 37 years old Pemba was the first Nepalese women to conquer Everest from the north side and one of only six women, who have scaled the mountain twice, most recently as part of the 2002 Nepalese women Expedition (South Face). Raised by her grandparents after losing her mother at the age of two, Pemba Doma was educated at the Khumjung School, one of 26 schools that Sir Edmund Hillary has established in the Solu Khumbu region since 1961. Pemba speaks nine languages and travels around the world raising money for her non profit group, Save the Himalayan kingdom, which educates Nepalese children, regardless of caste. She now splits her time between Namchee and Kathmandu.

Name: Ms. Pemba Doma Sherpa (7th July 1970)

Nationality: Nepali

Mountaineering Expeditions:

Mt Everest (North Ridge Route) 8848 meters: Summited

Mt Everest (South East Route) 8848 meters: Summited

Mt Cho Oyu, 8201 meters: Summited.

Lobuche East: Summited

Island Peak: Summited

Mt Blanc: Summited

Social Project:

President of Save the Himalayan Kingdom (a non profit group), which supports education and does restoration project of Buddhist nunneries and monasteries.

Awards:

1. National Award of Nepal, SUPRABAL PRASHIDDHA GORKHA DAKSHIN BAHU by His Majesty Late King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev of Nepal for Mountaineering.

2. Gold medal for Mountaineering, Nepal.

3. Sky Walk – The Soles of Records, Italy

Media Highlights:

Pemba Doma Sherpa is featured in:

1. Titled: The Unsung Heroes of Everest, April 2003
Outside Magazine (US) - April 2003

2. Resurgence Magazine, UK (Jan-Feb #228) "one of the six women who embrace the mountains on a daily basis"

3. BBC documentary, Celebrating 50 years on Everest.

4. Aspen Times US, The Kathmandu Post, Kantipur, Himalayan Times, Nari Magazine, Mount Everest.net, Everestnews.com.

Language: Fluent in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish, Nepali, Tibetan, Sherpa, and Hindi.

Pemba Doma is a member of Sherpa Adventure Gear.